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|Author:||Ethan Whitehall [ Fri Dec 07, 2012 9:58 am ]|
|Post subject:||Garrett Sharps|
Hello all, I now have in my possession a infantry model Garrett Arms Sharps number 780(lowest number on any of my firearms). Since it is the closest to "the real deal" short of the set triggers I am wondering one thing... Does anyone know of or where I may find a full DST system? I have seen some for Peds'. and Armis' but of course no Garrett's', go figure since they have been out of business for about 30 years. Any help or leads would be great.
|Author:||Calum [ Sat Dec 15, 2012 11:06 am ]|
|Post subject:||Re: Garrett Sharps|
Congrats on your Garrett! I recently obtained one as well, and it is so far superior to the other repros that I've handled as to be no comparison.
I just attempted to swap out the trigger assemblies from my Garrett (dst) and ArmiSport (st). I didn't use my dst Armi because it's highly tempermental if the lock or trigger assembly is pulled, but I know from prior experience that the Armi single trigger plate will fit in the Armi dst.
The Armi will not work on the Garrett. I don't have a good large caliper, so some of the dimensions below are by eyeball.
The Garrett plate appears to be a hair longer. I didn't dismount the triggers to actually fit them flush agains each other, but went on a side by side comparrison.
The Garrett plate is also a hair narrower at the breech end (it almost appeared tapered) - the Armi would not fit into the metal saddle, thus ending the actual attemt to fit it. You could probably file the Armi trigger plate down enough to fit, but it wouldn't be worth the effort because of other issues.
The lower front Garrett screw is considerably larger than the Armi screw. You would have to ream the trigger plate to accept the larger screw.
The lower and upper rear screws appear to be in the same location and same size. The upper front screw is in a slightly different location. If you could get an untapped Armi plate, you might be able to drill/tap it where the screw needs to be, but that would be questionable at best and not something I'd try.
I did not think to check if the screw threads were the same until the Garrett was re-assembled. The Armi cone will fit in the Garrett, but the breech block will not.
|Author:||Ethan Whitehall [ Thu Dec 20, 2012 4:03 am ]|
|Post subject:||Re: Garrett Sharps|
First off, thank you! I love this rifle. One of my 3 sharps (I have 2 Armis' as well), I can honestly say that Ive never had a firearm with such a low serial number, 780...
As for the trigger conversion, Ive already looked into the Armi Sport idea but it would take too much work for what Im comfortable with... Though it may be possible a "Ped" set may work... Time to get one of the Privates in my company to let me tinker...
|Author:||Bill Skillman [ Tue Dec 25, 2012 5:06 pm ]|
|Post subject:||Re: Garrett Sharps-a Christmas story|
You might try ordering a Pederosoli dst trigger and plate from Dixie (Pederosoli bought up the original Garrett tooling/dies to make their own Sharps arms). But a word of caution. Last year, Dan Wambaugh set about to give our friend Brian White a Christmas present, by converting his Pederosoli Infantry Sharps into a Berdan set trigger model. Dan ordered a Ped 'drop in' dst set from Dixie. Dan figured it would be a fairly easy job, I suggested Dan borrow my old Berdan Pederosoli to study how the trigger plate fit into the stock and how the set trigger mated to the sear/flying tumbler.
When the dst arrived, Dan studied my Ped and carefully inlet the mortise and other work until he got the new trigger system installed and functional. Satisfied the project was finished with a couple weeks to spare, Dan slipped the breechblock into the reciever, inserted the lever key and began to close the lever. Suddenly the lever stopped cold--hanging up on the protruding curved surface of the set trigger. Dan, worked the lever up and down, but neither the set trigger or lever budged. Dan called Dixie and learned the Pederosoli set trigger was a 'new, improved model' from the factory originals. Dan pulled the trigger plate, removed the rear trigger and using pliers tried to slightly straighten it to match the one from my old Ped. Unfortunately, just as the trigger started to straighten the metal failed and the trigger snapped in two. It was fortunate that Santa had closed his 'Naughty & Nice' books for the year so Dan's expletives went unheard.
Dan was able to contact a gunsmith friend who agreed to cast a replacement set trigger matching the original set triggers profile. Brian finally got his long waited Christmas present-a Pederosoli Berdan Sharps; while Dan vowed NEVER, NEVER to undertake another Sharps conversion project.
You might try contacting Curt Schmidt (who regularly posts on the Authentic Campaigner/Civil War Reenactors forum) to see if he can recall what brand of set triggers he used to install on the Garrett Sharps now owned by Calum. I suspect Curt added Pederosoli set triggers to my own Garrett Sharps rifle (#777) before selling it.
Hudson Squad Mess
|Author:||Calum [ Tue Dec 25, 2012 6:49 pm ]|
|Post subject:||Re: Garrett Sharps|
As Bill pointed out, it is possible that my Garrett was retrofitted with dst before I bought it. If so, then Curt was highly anal about serial stamping everything on the Garrett because the trigger plate has the matching serial number (776) to everything else on the gun. And I mean just about everything! Including the cutter plate!
|Author:||Bill Skillman [ Tue Aug 27, 2013 9:30 am ]|
|Post subject:||DST-problems with keeping Peds at half cock|
I attended the Jackson (MI) Cascades Civil War muster this past weekend. Accompanying me was my old comrade, Brian White, who was taking his 'modified to dst' Pederosoli to the field for the first time since BGA. Brian's rifle had gone 'paws up' during the third day at BGA's Pickett Charge event. During weapons inspection his rifle refused to stay at 'half-cock'--continually slipping and falling onto the cone. Brian refused to take the gun into the field, so I loaned him my Garrett so he could 'make music on the skirmish line' instead. Brian returned the Ped to Dan who thoroughly examined the triggers and tumbler assembly and found nothing wrong.
WARNING--DO NOT DO THE FOLLOWING OPERATIONS WHEN YOUR RIFLE IS LOADED OR CAPPED
While my son Chris and I were waiting for Brian to join us for skirmish drill, Brian pulled his hammer to half cock-put his thumb around it, pulled the trigger, and gently lowered it onto the cone. When he tried to repeat the operation, the hammer refused to stay at half-cock and smacked onto the cone. Brian's face fell and he groaned: NOT AGAIN???!!!!. He tried repeating the operation, only to have the hammer refuse to engage at half cock. I took his Sharps and lowered the block, pulled the hammer to full cock and then pulled the trigger--the hammer smacked down on the cone smartly. I then brought it back to half cock--the hammer stuck solid--full cock, released trigger--'smack'. I don't recommend doing this-but what I wanted to establish that the rifle had no trouble staying at half cock when operating 'normally'. The 'slippage' only occurred when Brian restrained the hammer from falling free.
I turned my attention to the set trigger screw, figuring that if it was set 'too fine' (loose) that this could cause the sear to not adequately mate to the trigger. I pulled out my screw driver and turned the set screw 1/4 turn. When I had Brian do the 'restrained hammer fall' routine he had no problems bringing the hammer back to half-cock. Of course, doing this 5-6 times and then the hammer slipped again. This time I screwed the set screw until it was snug. I gave the rifle back to Brian and he had no more troubles with the 'slipping half cock'.
If you discover your Ped or Armi Sport having the same problems, try snugging the set screw down tight and then try the half-full cock test.
Hope this helps.
Hudson Squad Mess-USSS
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