Guys,
I just received a batch of samples from Hainsworth including their Rifle Green doeskin "slight seconds" and Re-Enactment Collection.
The photographs you see below are the new samples, two discontinued fabrics/colors, and some dark blue samples for comparison. The green row contains, from left to right: Windsor Collection Rifle Green, Richmond Green Cap Cloth, Rifle Green Doeskin "Slight Second," and Rifle Green Re-Enactment Collection Fabric. Both photos are in direct sunlight but at two different angles to try and show off the effects of metamerism (color and its relation under different light sources). Keep in mind that your computer screens (and mine) may not show these colors for what they truly are in person; because of this I will give my best opinion on each sample and their relation to original garments that I have studied.
Windsor Collection Rifle Green: This is the cloth that I previously stated would make the best U.S.S.S. enlisted frocks and trousers, however I recently learned that being an interior design cloth it contains 25% synthetic fiber and is also the incorrect weave. But don't worry because it's been discontinued anyway! I included it here because it compares nicely in color to the original Cpl. Henderson uniform coat (private collection).
Richmond Green Cap Cloth: Cap cloth is a tightly woven and moderately finished plain-woven material that was used very extensively in Civil War era forage caps. It's sometimes also called "facing cloth." The Gettysburg U.S.S.S. forage cap as well as caps worn by Sgt. J. T. Schermerhorn and Sgt. Lewis Allen are all made from plain weave wool such as this sample. The color is dark and has just a slight amount of yellow in the dye; this is consistent with at least one original U.S.S.S. cap contract; they were cut from indigo-dyed YELLOW facing cloth. This color and cloth is ideal but only available from Hainsworth as a custom color.
Rifle Green Doeskin "Slight Second:" Hainsworth's Doeskin wool is a superfine, twill woven broadcloth. Twill weave wool is what was used in both the Tilson and Henderson frock coats (and the majority of mounted jackets and frock coats), but this is nowhere near the same weight. It's thin but not shoddy or loosely woven; it's just made using really, really, ridiculously fine yarns. Fabric at this weight would make an absolutely
excellent officer's uniform. Looking at it in front of me, the color is a perfect example of metamerism; at an angle to natural light it's an incredibly vibrant pure green with no yellow or blue hues in the dye. When looking directly at it, the color deepens dramatically....this is just how light plays to the human eye when it's bouncing off fabric that is finished or brushed/napped a certain way, etc.. It has a "front" or "face" by way of a directional brushed nap that is short and pressed down to give the fabric a very lustrous, shiny appearance. The back of the cloth is also finished but not as finely, and the twill weave is slightly visible. Like I said above, this would be great for officer's uniforms but I think it would also do for forage caps if you're not overly concerned about difference in weave or a slight hue variation.
Rifle Green Re-Enactment Fabric: This sample is within the color range of both original U.S.S.S. frocks I've examined but unfortunately is not the proper weight, weave, or finish of the same originals. It's slightly thicker than the doeskin by virtue of larger diameter wool yarns but it is simply not as densely woven or thick as original cloth. That isn't to say that there were variations in originals because there were, typically in color (the Tilson and Henderson frocks are made using FOUR slightly different hues of dark green) but commonly not in the weave itself. However, since options are limited I can see this being a viable source material for frocks and pants; even caps if you are not as big a stickler as I am!
In the last seven years of receiving samples from Hainsworth I have seen some truly amazing fabrics. Some of their older, now-discontinued materials would have been absolutely perfect up to about three years ago but back then the cost was incredibly prohibitive at upwards of $85 a meter without including overseas shipping! It's refreshing to see that they have some much more affordable fabrics on hand but unfortunately the samples simply don't compare well to the original U.S.S.S. coats I have studied. If these factors don't concern you and you are just after the right color then go for it. If you want
- Spend a long time learning how to dye fabric and try your hand at top-dyeing some dark blue cloth of the proper weight and weave (I've actually done this with very nice results but it's a delicate balance),
- Keep searching the market,
- And my favorite of all, custom finished, custom dyed fabric. Woolrich is ideal for this since they are able to weave, dye, and finish fabrics in-house. I am not joking when I say I have thought this through in order to get the "ultimate" U.S.S.S. cloth. They offer a lighter weight, tightly woven, virgin wool twill flannel that is, on it's own, too light weight for U.S.S.S. uniforms. However, if Woolrich were to take this cloth, custom dye it, and then finish it to the specs of original uniform coats (or at the very least like their heavier trouser kersey) then we got something. There are sizable minimums involved with custom work like this and of course the end price of the material could be a bit higher than any of us are used to paying...but it will still be affordable and in my opinion worth it if the resulting cloth is truly accurate. Left over fabric from a custom run like this can be easily spread out to interested parties in the reenacting community; guys could buy a few yards and hoard it, availability may lead to more people doing the U.S.S.S. impression, it could be sold to larger "factory" companies here in the states, and I know of at least TWO museums that I intend on making replica frocks for display who would buy some. We deal with Woolrich here at the business so I could try to get in touch and see about prices, yardage, et cetera if enough people are interested.
Hope this has been some help to those who are looking for new or replacement uniform pieces. For those of you who do not know me and think that my observations and opinions above are a little crazy, I've been searching for the ultimate coat/trouser/cap cloth for about a decade. I also make C.W. uniforms for a living patterned from originals; I have a strong personal and business standard that I adhere to which allows me to offer some of the best products on the market. This desire to "measure twice, cut once" or maybe "do it once, do it right" most definitely extends into the material culture aspect of my U.S.S.S. impression.
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Brian WhiteWambaugh, White, & Companyhttp://www.wwandcompany.com----------------------------------
Randolph Mess, U.S. Sharpshooters