Major developments on the seamless overcoat front for those of you who are interested!
A few days ago, thanks to Google Patents, I discovered several very important patents related to the production of seamless clothing in the 1850's. Not only did descriptions of the production of wool bats for felting turn up but the patterns for the seamless overcoats themselves, and even more thrilling was the patent for the hinged wooden formers they were shrunk and stretched on. To keep this quick and painless, I am more confident than ever that I can produce highly accurate seamless overcoats using the original patterns and methods of joining the garment edges, sleeves, etc. using the modern needle felting process.
The original seamless coats were formed from processed wool bats with the pieces greatly enlarged and basted together at key locations with a non-shrinking thread. These basted edges were then "jiggered" together using a vibrating iron plate that interlocked the scales on the wool fibers. Once this was completed, the coats were then wetted and placed on wooden forms for drying; during this process the wool fibers would shrink and stretch the coat over the form, giving them a somewhat shaped appearance. Once sufficiently shrunk and "felted" the basting stitches were removed and the coat was trimmed and finished with worsted tape, buttons, pockets, et cetera. Going against everything I expected to see in original 19th Century clothing, the finished coats were entirely unlined.
To avoid the lengthy process described above, I have located about 75 yards of 100% wool felt in a silver-gray color. The felt is 70" wide which will allow me to cut the bodies in one piece. Simple tubular sleeves will be needle-felted on the out-seam and steam pressed to permit the fibers to interlock and shrink together. The body will be formed in an identical manner. To replicate the unique formed silhouette of the originals, I believe that the coats can be wetted in hot water and placed on modern mannequin torso forms until dry. Capes will also be once piece and made with buttonholes on the neck edge to allow them to be buttoned under the coat collar. As per the originals issued to the sharpshooters, they can be trimmed with either dark green or red* worsted wool tape. I plan to offer each overcoat with rubber eagle buttons that I am developing in conjunction.
I hope to have my prototype seamless felt overcoat finished by the end of September, photographed in detail, and posted here. If they go together as well as I think they will, I do plan on a limited run for anyone interested. I can't think of a more unique and novel Sharpshooter-related item to have on display at the upcoming 150th anniversary events!
More to come....
* Yes, red trim! Seamless Clothing Manufacturing Co. did not have enough green-trimmed coats produced to fill their contract, thus delaying 300 of the garments. Berdan ordered them to send the balance which turned out to be gray coats trimmed with red tape! Company D, 1st U.S.S.S. was noted to have been issued a portion of the red-trimmed coats; those in the 2nd U.S.S.S. who were without either the green or red trimmed overcoats appear to have been issued standard sky blue infantry overcoats.
Seamless Overcoat Pattern:
http://www.google.com/patents?id=9BJYAA ... &q&f=falseSeamless Overcoat Forming Block:
http://www.google.com/patents/about?id= ... xy_is=1865
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Brian WhiteWambaugh, White, & Companyhttp://www.wwandcompany.com----------------------------------
Randolph Mess, U.S. Sharpshooters